Lyell Hut

Perched on a rock outcrop and surrounded by glaciers on all sides, the Lyell Hut offers access to some of the best mountain terrain anywhere in the world. Situated at 2860m (9400'), it sits on the shoulder of Christian Peak (Lyell 5). You can be on the summit of Christian Peak, watch the sun set and ski down to the hut in the last light.

The amount of terrain the Lyell Hut opens up is mind blowing. All five 11,000' Lyell peaks can be skied in a day trip from the hut. There are over a dozen glacier runs right out the door. It offers access to monster 7000' runs that descend from the summits of the Lyells into Lyell Creek to the north. It provides a convenient stop on the Great Divide Traverse. It is possible, in good conditions, to ski out the broken South East Lyell Glacier to Saskatchewan Crossing in a day. There are other un-skied possibilities waiting to be explored.

The hut provides dorm style accommodation for up to 12 people. It is supplied with a propane stove, all cooking and eating utensils, mattresses, blankets, propane heater and solar lighting. While blankets are provided, guests are required to bring sleeping bag liners. There are hut shoes and a couple pairs of rubber boots.

The Lyell hut is located on the Rostrum Peak map, 82 N/14. Grid reference 931526.

Latitude: 51 55' 28.63" Longitude: 117 05' 59.75"

 

Hut Access:

Access to the hut involves crossing large glaciers and several steep slopes. It is recommended that groups without mountaineering experience hire a guide for a traverse to the hut.
In the winter the normal access to the Lyell Hut from Icefall Lodge is through Crampon Col GR913503. Although you may need crampons in the summer, it is not normal in the winter. The south west side of this Col is a steep narrow couloir that normally has to be boot packed for the last half. The north east side (picture to the right) has a bergschrund directly below the Col. Although this is often filled in during the winter, it is usually best to ski down this slop on the skiers left.

 

 

The south west side of this Col ( pictured to the left) is a steep narrow couloir that normally has to be boot packed for the last half.

 

 

 

 

 

Alternate Acceess:

An alternative winter access is to ski over Tivoli Shoulder (small saddle GR926486) and down the east facing Tivoli Glacier. There is a steep slope just below the toe of the Tivoli Glacier after which it is an easy ski around the corner to the Southeast Lyell Glacier. The traverse to Tivoli shoulder is steep and exposed to cliff below. This is a more serious winter route than Crampon Col.

 

 

 

The route after going over Tivoli Shoulder and descending the glacier. The winter route is shown in blue and the White Ledge summer route in red.