Hut to hut traverse

Perched on a rock outcrop and surrounded by glaciers on all sides, the Lyell Hut offers access to some of the best mountain terrain anywhere in the world. Situated at 2860m (9400'), it sits on the shoulder of Christian Peak (Lyell 5). The amount of terrain the Lyell Hut opens up is mind blowing. All five 11,000' Lyell peaks can be skied in a day trip from the hut. There are over a dozen glacier runs right out the door. It offers access to monster 7000' runs that descend from the summits of the Lyells into Lyell Creek to the north. It provides a convenient stop on the Great Divide Traverse. It is possible, in good conditions, to ski out the broken South East Lyell Glacier to Saskatchewan Crossing in a day. There are other un-skied possibilities waiting to be explored.

In the summer it offers the perfect base for doing a traverse of the Lyells. Dominating the view to the south is the North Face of Mount Forbes. Also accessible from the Hut is Mons Peak, Lens Peak and Division Peak. The Hut can be reached in 6-7 hours from Icefall lodge, making it the perfect distance for a hut to hut traverse. You can spend a couple days at the Lyell Hut mid week, and then return to a more comfortable base at Icefall Lodge.

 

The hut provides dorm style accommodation for up to 12 people. It is supplied with a propane stove, all cooking and eating utensils, mattresses, blankets, propane heater and solar lighting. While blankets are provided, guests are required to bring sleeping bag liners.

The cost for the hut is $30/ person/ night + tax.

The Lyell hut is located on the Rostrum Peak map, 82 N/14. Grid reference 931526.

Hut Access

Access to the hut involves crossing large glaciers and several steep slopes. It is recommended that groups without mountaineering experience hire a guide for a traverse to the hut.

In the winter the normal access to the Lyell Hut from Icefall Lodge is through Crampon Col GR913503. Although you may need crampons in the summer, it is not normal in the winter. The south west side of this Col is a steep narrow couloir that normally has to be boot packed for the last half. The north east side (picture to the right) has a bergschrund directly below the Col. Although this is often filled in during the winter, it is usually best to ski down this slop on the skiers left.

An alternative winter access is to ski over Tivoli Shoulder (small saddle GR926486) and down the east facing Tivoli Glacier. There is a steep just below the toe of the Tivoli Glacier after which it is an easy ski around the corner to the Southeast Lyell Glacier. The traverse to Tivoli shoulder is steep and exposed to cliff below. This is a more serious winter route than Crampon Col. The winter route is shown in blue and the White Ledge summer route in red.

 

Summer Access

In the summer the Lyell Hut can be reached by Crampon Col or by Tivoli Shoulder and the White ledge. The access via Crampon Col becomes more difficult as the summer progresses and the bergschrund becomes more open and the slope more icy. It may become necessary to rappel the Bergschrund or make a long detour. Also as the snow melts out or early morning with a good freeze, crampons may become necessary.

The hike to Tivoli Shoulder is straightforward in the summer. Just after the toe of the Tivoli Glacier, a rappel may be required to descend the steep rock slb below. An alternative to this is to traverse the White Ledge (pictured above). To reach this descend the Tivoli Glacier a few hundred feet until it is possible to traverse left (northeast) accross a talus slope under an overhanging face. A rising traversefor 200m brings you to a ridge looking over the Southeast Lyell Glacier. From here you traverse the descending white ledge down to the Southeast Lyell Glacier. The White Ledge is about 150m long. Although it is exposed, it is mostly hiking with a few 4th class moves. There are 6 bolts on this ledge to protect the harder bits.