advanced ski mountaineering course
This is an advanced level course designed for skiers wishing to become ski guides. The course will emphasize learning but will include mountaineering summits. Objectives will vary depending on conditions, but may include the 5 Lyell peaks (all over 11,000 feet), Icefall peak, Lens Peak, and mons Peak. There is plenty of heavily glaciated big mountain terrain as well as many unskied lines to explore.
There will be an emphasis on guiding techniques for those wishing to pursue a guiding career .The course will try to put participants in a leadership position, structured similar to the ACMG guides courses. The course will be taught by IFMGA Mountain Guide, Larry Dolecki. Larry is involved in the ACMG training and certification program and will be able to give valuable feedback to participants on where they are relative to the standard on the guides courses.
Participants should have extensive ski touring experience, expert skiing ability, and excellent physical condition. There will be big ski days in complex heavily glaciated terrain. Participants will need to present a resume of previous ski touring and mountaineering experience when applying for the course.
Skills covered include:
- Crevasse rescue and rope techniques for glacier travel.
- Use of crampons and ski crampons.
- Route planning.
- Map reading and terrain assessment.
- Whiteout navigation.
- Short roping on snow and rock.
- General rope handling skills.
- Decision making.
Dates:May 5- 12, 2012
Price: $1800 + HST; $500 deposit required to book, balance due at the start of the course.
Meeting Place: Golden, BC.
Included: Accommodation at Icefall Lodge or the Lyell Hut, food, guiding and instruction.
Example Objectives:
Diamond Spur is an advanced ski mountaineering objective which leads to the summit of Icefall Peak. This route was first climbed and skied on the 2006 ski mountaineering course. It involves a variety of mountaineering techniques including,boot hiking, crampons, and short roping. The smooth transition between these techniques and getting the perfect timing for the descent, were important factors in a successful climb.
Ernest Peak, Lyell 3: This is the highest of the 5 Lyell Peaks at 3520m (11,546 feet). It involces a long glacier approach and a steep climb up the NE face. The Bergschrund is sometimes problematic on this face but there are several options available. From the Lyell Hut, this is a reasonable day objective and we often add on the less technical Lyell 1 (Rudolph) and 2 (Edward).
Lens Peak: This complex mountain with many sub summits offers a unique vantage point over the Lyell Glacier, Icefall Brook, Mount Alexandra, Mt Forbes and the Columbia Icefields. The South Face Couloir offers a weakness to the summit which can be skied from the top. After crossing the bergschrund, bootpacking, possible with crampons, takes a direct line to the summit. Depending on conditions, short roping or belaying may be required.
Spring ski mountaineering often requires alpine starts. Steep traverses in icy morning conditions require different techniques such ski crampons. In the spring if you ski a slope too early and it is icy, hard and not much fun. Ski too late and the snow is too soft, there is avalanche danger, and bridged crevasses are collapsing. Learn the subtle balance between aspect, elevation, pitch, and temperature to plan the trip for perfect timing.
Crevasse rescue in realistic situations. Practicing crevasse rescue in a controlled enviroment can get you familiar with rope techniques. While this is important, many people are unable to perform a crevasse rescue in the real situation with adverse conditions. We will practice crevasse rescue in real crevsses so that you will be confident of your ability in a real rescue.
Short roping using natural rock anchors. This provides a quick secure anchor without carrying any extra gear. Learning to recognize and use these anchors quickly and efficiently will enable you to climb big mountains more securely.
