Lyell Hut

In the summer the Lyell Hut offers the perfect base for doing a traverse of the 5 Lyells Peaks. Dominating the view to the south is the North Face of Mount Forbes. Also accessible from the Hut is Mons Peak, Lens Peak and Division Peak. The Hut can be reached in 6-7 hours from Icefall lodge, making it the perfect distance for a hut to hut traverse. You can spend a couple days at the Lyell Hut mid week, and then return to a more comfortable base at Icefall Lodge.

The hut provides dorm style accommodation for up to 12 people. It is supplied with a propane stove, all cooking and eating utensils, mattresses, blankets, propane heater, hut shoes and solar lighting. While blankets are provided, guests are required to bring sleeping bag liners.

The Lyell hut is located on the Rostrum Peak map, 82 N/14. Grid reference 931526.

Hut Access:

In the summer the Lyell Hut can be reached by Crampon Col or by Tivoli Shoulder and the White ledge. The access via Crampon Col becomes more difficult as the summer progresses and the bergschrund becomes more open and the slope more icy. It may become necessary to rappel the Bergschrund or make a long detour. Also as the snow melts out or early morning with a good freeze, crampons may become necessary.

The hike to Tivoli Shoulder is straightforward in the summer. Just after the toe of the Tivoli Glacier, a rappel may be required to descend the steep rock slab below. An alternative to this is to traverse the White Ledge (pictured above). To reach this descend the Tivoli Glacier a few hundred feet until it is possible to traverse left (northeast) accross a talus slope under an overhanging face. A rising traverse for 200m brings you to a ridge looking over the Southeast Lyell Glacier. From here you traverse the descending white ledge down to the Southeast Lyell Glacier. The White Ledge is about 150m long. Although it is exposed, it is mostly hiking with a few 4th class moves. There are 6 bolts on this ledge to protect the exposed sections.